One of London’s most simply delightful and soul-nourishing restaurants, whether or not it is Japanese, is Shuko Oda’s Koya.
There’s nothing quite like walking into Koya, a walk-in restaurant offering a variety of hot and cold Japanese dishes, on a truly chilly London day. The simple, utilitarian decor instantly transports you to Japan, with steam rising from various stovetop stockpots steaming up the windows and making you forget the bite outside.
Established by the gifted Shuko Oda, Koya has swiftly gained popularity in London’s food scene by providing a distinctive fusion of traditional Japanese cuisine with a dash of regional flare. The English breakfast udon noodle bowl, for example, perfectly captures this philosophy with its use of bacon and shitake, a nod to the city’s fry-up culture.
Similarly, the curry sauce-topped porridge with smoked haddock and poached egg, referred to as “kedgeree,” may perhaps be much superior.
Of course, the menu offers more than just fusion cuisine. In Soho, Koya has established a reputation as the place to go for authentic Japanese breakfast.
Typically, a traditional Japanese breakfast consists of minor sides such as miso soup, salmon, and rice. This type is what Koya has to offer. It’s certainly light, but it’s also really flavourful and rich, with the savory miso broth providing a subtle wake-up call. This place serves breakfast from 10 a.m. to noon.
The restaurant’s main attraction is undoubtedly its udon noodles, which come in three varieties as the day gets going: hot udon in a hot broth (Atsu-Atsu), cold udon in a hot broth (Hiya-Atsu), and cold udon with cold sauces to dip or pour (Hiya-Hiya), the latter of which is ideal for the hottest summer days.
Each has an assortment of toppings and garnishes, as well as optional extras. The tamago poached egg is a must-try. Choose your poison according to how you’re feeling that day; either way, these bowls of nourishment and subsistence will make it better.
There is much more to love here than just the famous traditional Japanese breakfast and steaming bowls of udon noodles with tempura prawn. For example, the house pickles are expertly positioned, and the braised pork belly with cider is gelatinous and giving in all the right places.
Since Namayasai Farm in East Sussex provides most of Koya’s veggies, the flavors here are immediate and fresh rather than having been altered by air miles. Yes, this is a facility that will provide you with nourishment.
